Update on Marlin 336 Project

[mukwah]

Well since I forgot to post before pics I thought I'd show some of where I am now on the project.
The stock is ready to start the 10+ coats of hand rubbed Tru Oil. The barrel and receiver have been steel wool rubbed with CLP about 7 or 8 times. I am now waiting on my Oxpha Blue and then I'll decide if I'll totally strip and blue or just spot blue.

 

[RICHGCOOP]

Keep up the good work. You will have a lot of pride in it when you are done.

RICHGCOOP



DROID3 - Tap talk

 

[rayzer007]

Nice work Muk!

Ray

 

[Fred_Import]

Nice work Muk!

Ray

Yes, it sure is. Many, many moons ago I sold a Marlin 336 in .35 Remington to a friend. I still regret that, as that was a nice shooting and good looking gun.

I think when you're done you will have a real beauty. Please keep us posted.

 

[WAcarry]

Nice job Muk. Can't wait for the finished pics!

 

[TRIGGER_1]

Hope to see the project finished soon.....Good job.......

 

[mukwah]

Any ideas on how to get rid of this oil stain? I've tried the hair dryer thing and a heat lamp and this is as good as I can get it. I'm fixing to start my tru-oil rubbing and I'm not sure how much this is going to show.

 

[RICHGCOOP]

Use a little water to dampen in the area.
That's the way it'll look after you put the tru-oil on.

RICHGCOOP



DROID3 - Tap talk

 

[RugerRon60]

I seen on the TV show Gunsmoke they got a really damp cloth and kept running a hot iron over it. They did mention that if the cloth wasn't wet enough you may burn the wood. I am no way knowledgable in this area but I thought I would mention it. Good luck and hope something works for you.

 

[SkipD]

I seen on the TV show Gunsmoke they got a really damp cloth and kept running a hot iron over it. They did mention that if the cloth wasn't wet enough you may burn the wood. I am no way knowledgable in this area but I thought I would mention it. Good luck and hope something works for you.

The trick of steaming wood typically is used to expand the fibers in a dent to "raise" the dent back to the original surface level. I don't have a clue how that could remove an oily stain.

What I would consider doing, as I do a lot of woodworking, is to use a product that will remove most, if not all, of the current stain and the oily stain as well and start over.

As a shorter process, you could try using a solvent such as acetone to remove the oily stain, but you might have to reapply the desired color stain afterward. I cannot see the oily stain in the photo very well, so it's hard to analyse via the photo. What does the stain consist of - lubrication oil from the action? When did the stain get there - before or after you stained the whole stock?

 

[Pops]

You might want to send an email to Larry Potterfield of Midway USA. He does answer emails and he certainly is an expert on gun repair.

 

[mukwah]

I haven't sealed or stained the fore end yet. The wood you see completely sanded and ready to stain and oil. I think I'll go ahead and apply the seal and first coat of tru-oil and see how it looks. It may not show that bad and since it is on the underside of the rifle it may not even be noticable.

 

[SkipD]

Since you have bare wood, I would try using acetone or MEK on a clean lint-free cloth to dab on the oil stain (assuming it's lubrication oil) and see if you can draw it out of the wood before applying the stain and finish. Don't flood the wood with the solvent but simply work on the surface.

Even if all of the ugly stain won't come out, you may be able to reduce its color to more closely match the color of the wood.

 

[RICHGCOOP]

Wood looks like black walnut. If it is you want to Whisker the wood to raise the grain. Then rub the stan filler into the pores. This really brings out the beauty of black walnut.

RICHGCOOP



DROID3 - Tap talk

 

[mukwah]

By wiskering the wood do you mean wet sanding or just dampening?

 

[SkipD]

MANY years ago, my grandfather taught me to raise the grain on walnut projects with a damp rag and then wet sand the whiskers off. One can achieve the best finish on walnut that way.

He had purchased a semi-load of walnut from a mill and made furniture from the pile for quite a few years. He helped me design and make a telephone table out of that walnut for my mother when I was about 14 years old. Mom gave me the table back a few years before she passed away and it's in my office right now.

 

[mukwah]

Need some advice! I decided to strip the old bluing from the barrel and reciever and reblue with Oxpha Blue, something I've never done before. My question is, I have some time tomorrow to do the stripping but it might be 3-4 days before I can start bluing. Will the bare metal be OK for a few days or should I wait? I sure don't rust to start forming after all that stripping and polishing. Advice?

 

[RICHGCOOP]

Yes it will RUST.
Oil will keep it from rusting, but then you will have get all the oil off to get the bluing to take.
RICHGCOOP

 

[mukwah]

Well after 3 attempts at cold bluing the reciever and barrel I finally made the decision to get a professional hot bluing job. Dropped it off today at a highly recommended gunsmith who promises to bring it back to a factory finish. Downside is it could take 2-3 months as it is hunting season and his work is in high demand right now.
Meanwhile I will continue to finish the stock, which is coming along beautifully, and do some fluff and buff on the action.
I also plan on Muleman out of Arkansas do his thing on the lever.
Will post pics as work progresses.

 

[rayzer007]

Well after 3 attempts at cold bluing the reciever and barrel I finally made the decision to get a professional hot bluing job.

I think that is a smart move Muk that you will not regret! It'll be worth the wait.

Ray