Winchester 94 help

Howard Law
Y

yz9890

Frontiersman
Jun 8, 2012
260
0
0
I left this rifle at my dad's about 9yrs ago. We got him a Marlin XS7C 308 and he's now done with my Winchester. He used it regularly but didn't take very good care of it. Here are a few pictures of some rust areas I now need to address. the most problematic areas appear to be under the rear sight between the tube and barrel, and possibly on the barrel and tube covered by the forend because there are some spots where the barrel meets wood. it looks like i need to learn how to disassemble this rifle and I would appreciate any input about how to address these rust spots. it's pretty scratched up and will never look new again. that's fine. I like the look of a well used gun vs a polished trophy but I need to get rid of this corrosion. below are photos of some of the rust areas. thanks for your help.

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M

millsriver

Hunter
Jun 21, 2012
46
0
0
North Carolina
I just recently restored a 1902 Remington rolling block in 7mm Spanish Mauser that was hanging in a barn for forty years. I used CLR with a 0000 steel wool. Rub gently until you see the bluing (or what is left). I was amazed, all the rust came off but the bluing was still there. Good luck and take your time. You've got a piece of history there.
 
RICHGCOOP

RICHGCOOP

Marksman
Mar 7, 2010
1,143
71
63
CANTON, OHIO
Zip code
44669
Like Mills said good cleaning oil And 0000 steel wool is the best thing to use.
This is not near as bad as what you thought it was.

RICHGCOOP



DROID3 - Tap talk
 
M

mukwah

Guest
I would definately disassembly her to get to all the inside rust. Can't really tell from the pictures but she dosen't look like there is any real pitting in the rust. As Millsriver said, good slow and easy rubbing with 0000 steel wool and CLP should do the trick nicely as long as it's not stainless steel. I would give her a good soaking or spray down in CLP and let it sit awhile to break some rust in tight spots.
I would also find a good Winchester Forum to poke around in and ask any questions or for tips, good info in those places. If you don't have a manual for it you can download one from the internet. I would also go to Numrich's web site for a schematic and parts list should you need to replace any parts. This also helped me with disassembly.
Can't tell much about about the wood or if it needs any work, but that's your call.
Have fun and enjoy and just take you time and be patient. ;D
 
Y

yz9890

Frontiersman
Jun 8, 2012
260
0
0
am I going to need to push that rear sight out to get at the rust under it or can I use a brass brush?
 
SkipD

SkipD

Helper-outer
Jun 8, 2012
703
64
63
77
Southeast Wisconsin
Zip code
53024
I'd take the sights completely off the rifle.

If you need help with disassembly information, PM me. I have access to info and have a 94 to look at on my end as well.
 
M

mukwah

Guest
I agree with Skip, it needs to come off to clean up good. I know on my Marlin it only slid out of the dovetail in one direction, left to right. Not sure on the Winchester but Skip should know.
 
Y

yz9890

Frontiersman
Jun 8, 2012
260
0
0
SkipD said:
I'd take the sights completely off the rifle.

If you need help with disassembly information, PM me. I have access to info and have a 94 to look at on my end as well.
Click to expand...

thanks. I'll do that. I have no idea how to get those sights off. the rest doesn't look too bad.
 
H

hoppy

Hunter
Jun 24, 2012
15
0
0
North Georgia
Folks,

I'm no restoration expert, but I have read on the Rimfire Central - Winchester forum that the best stuff to use on removal of rust and corrosion on guns is not steel wool but Big 45 Frontier Gun Cleaner. It looks like a ball of metal shavings and is available for $6.00 each, shipping included. It says on the ad that it is harder than rust but softer than bluing. It is not supposed to leave small scratches like steel wool. People who have used it swear by it. No, I don't work for the company.

http://www.frontiermetalcleaner.com/

Good luck

Hoppy
 
Pops

Pops

Woodsman
Jun 8, 2012
183
21
28
78
Maine
A nice tidbit of info to know. Thanks Hoppy and post more often. I see it is your second post so welcome to the best forum! :D
 
M

mukwah

Guest
Looks really neat hoppy! Wish I'd known of this about 4 months and 3 projects back! Good info, think I'm gonna get some just to have around! Looks like you can use it on blades as well. Oh, a big WELCOME to the forum. Looking forward to learning more from you!
 
SkipD

SkipD

Helper-outer
Jun 8, 2012
703
64
63
77
Southeast Wisconsin
Zip code
53024
yz9890 said:
am I going to need to push that rear sight out to get at the rust under it or can I use a brass brush?
Click to expand...
Did you ever figure out how to remove the sights so you can clean things up?
 
Y

yz9890

Frontiersman
Jun 8, 2012
260
0
0
SkipD said:
yz9890 said:
am I going to need to push that rear sight out to get at the rust under it or can I use a brass brush?
Click to expand...
Did you ever figure out how to remove the sights so you can clean things up?
Click to expand...

I've been out if town a lot since just after Thanksgiving. But I set up a table in front of the basement TV last night and took it apart (all but the sights). I also ordered the Frontier thing Hoppy suggested but it's not here yet. I don't have a sight pusher and don't want to beat on it. I plan on comparing the cost of proper tools to the cost of having a smith do it for me.
 
M

mukwah

Guest
YZ, you can buy a sight mover if you want but I don't think you'll need one. Get a plastic/rawhide mallet and some brass punches from Brownells (which are handy to have if you don't already have them). Give the sight a good soaking with CLP.
I did some reading on this and the Winchester rear sight drifts out of the dove tail left to right as in a Marlin. I think the whole process will a lot easier than you think.
 
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