How much does it normally cost to have a smith put a flash hider on properly? I have one threaded on but I would like it done correctly.
get it lined up right, torqued properly and with a crush washer or whatever put in.Whu- ?
You mean like welded in place?
All my muzzle devices are threaded.
<--- Completely missing your question.
I think he's talking about facing off the flash hider so it comes up with the flash holes to the top
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Use a crush washer .... crush the washer until it lines up where you want it ......especially for a standard flash hider. Nothing to it.
Fuck no you aren't going to hurt anything.There isnt an issue of over tightening it? obviously not going to crank down as hard as possible, but snugging it up good and tight shouldnt hurt anything?
Fuck no you aren't going to hurt anything.
I suggest using either a reaction rod, a magpul action block or a barrel vise to do it. I wouldn't use just an upper clamshell type holder. You could twist the barrel in the upper by using just a clamshell.
Tighten it as tight as you can without too much force, back off and tighten it a little further, keep using that method till you get it where you want it.
Use a barrel vise is my suggestionIts a bolt gun, not an AR. Does that change anything?
Its a bolt gun, not an AR. Does that change anything?
Flash hiders don't need to be timed. You may need another method to keep the barrel still.
An A2 flash hider sure does need to be timed.Flash hiders don't need to be timed. You may need another method to keep the barrel still.
An A2 flash hider sure does need to be timed.
That's when you get an A1 flash hider.Straight up, a couple degrees won't matter.
How much does it normally cost to have a smith put a flash hider on properly? I have one threaded on but I would like it done correctly.
It's just an A2 on a savage Axis .308. Nothing fancyWhat's the flash hider and rifle?
OP, per the TM, it calls for 20ft lbs.
Additionally, it should be tightened at least 90 degrees, but no more than 470 degrees. Flat portion timed to the bottom if using an A2. Depending on what type of flash hider you are installing, this process will vary and you should refer to the manufacturers recommendations.
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ETA: No need for a gunsmith. If you need help, bring it to my place. I will get it installed for you, but really, its not hard at all, even on a bolt gun.
These are super handy and worth buying a set for yourself:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...s/vise-jaws/magnetic-soft-jaws-prod22513.aspx
It's just an A2 on a savage Axis .308. Nothing fancy
An A2 "bird cage" with a solid bottom?
If so, easy enough. Use a crush washer. Like the man said above, tighten, then loosen and tighten again, repeat u til you get it where you want.
If you're wanting something purely for flash suppression, the SEI Vortex works better and doesn't have to be "timed". Just screw it on and forget it. Due to the design it will actually tighten even more while you're shooting it.
If you think you may want to run a can on down the road, the Silrncerco ASR flash hider is great. I have them on several rifles/carbines/SBR's, including bolt guns.
If it's a muzzle device I plan on attaching a can to, like the Silencerco, then I Rockcrete it in place.