First time casting bullets

[briant]

I finally started casting lead tonight. I was casting .358 158gr fn using a Lee mold. The first 3 out had a couple wrinkles but after that things were working well. I took them down to my bench to weigh them and lube them. I checked the weight on each one and they ranged from 161 to 162.2 gr. Can I still use the loading data from my book for a 158 gr or do I need to adjust for the slight weight difference? Guessing the 158 data will work but thought I would ask the experts here first before I do something I shouldn't...

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[SkipD]

What sort of alloy were you using? You definitely need an alloy that is significantly harder than pure lead and thus it would be lighter than pure lead.

To directly answer the question, the little bit of difference between 158 grains and 162.2 grains won't make much difference in the chamber pressure with the same powder load. However, for ALL loads one needs to very carefully work up from lower powder charges while analyzing the results and making sure that the chamber pressure is within safe tolerances. If you change the alloy to make a harder bullet, you must start the load experimentation process all over again because everything changes with the harder bullet alloy.

An additional safety caution: Make SURE that you are casting in a place where you have a significant supply of fresh air flowing toward you constantly. That fresh air should be getting to you first and then it should be flushing the fumes from the melted led away from you and out of the area. Working around melted led can be very hazardous to your health.

 

[briant]

I got the lead from one of my dad's friends. He said it was 98% lead and 2% tin although no way to verify that. I didn't lube them yet in case I need to melt them down and add something to harden it. Im thinking about lubing a few and loading to min to see how they do in my SP101. If you think I am better off starting over and changing the alloy I can do that...rather be out a small amount of time re-casting than to damage my favorite revolver. I think when I start casting my 9 and 45 I'll start with a new batch of lead so I know exactly what is in it.

Thanks for the info about moving air. I did the first batch in my garage with the door up but no air moving. Next time I'll turn the fan on behind me to blow the fumes and dust out away from me.

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[RICHGCOOP]

What kind of luber sizer do you have and what size are you going to size them to?

I have a RCBS & LYMEN and I size them to .357". I use JAVELINA bullet lube. I don't get any leading. I can load them to full house. Keep us posted on how it works.

RICHGCOOP

 

[SkipD]

I got the lead from one of my dad's friends. He said it was 98% lead and 2% tin although no way to verify that. I didn't lube them yet in case I need to melt them down and add something to harden it. Im thinking about lubing a few and loading to min to see how they do in my SP101. If you think I am better off starting over and changing the alloy I can do that...rather be out a small amount of time re-casting than to damage my favorite revolver. I think when I start casting my 9 and 45 I'll start with a new batch of lead so I know exactly what is in it.

One reason I use wheel weights for bullet material is the antimony in them. That makes them harder than just a lead/tin mix. The wheel weights may have a trace amount of arsenic in them, though.

Read this web page on cast bullet alloys for more in-depth information.

You could use the alloy you got for fishing sinkers and for balls used in muskets, but I don't think I'd want to use it for modern firearms.

 

[briant]

Thanks for the link Skip. Called today and one of the tire places said I could come pick up their old weights so will be doing that this weekend.

 

[SkipD]

Thanks for the link Skip. Called today and one of the tire places said I could come pick up their old weights so will be doing that this weekend.

Fantastic. The last load I got (a few years back) cost me something. I had always gotten the wheel weights for free but back then there was apparent competition for them.

Please be especially careful to provide GOOD ventilation when melting the wheel weight material.

One very useful thing you should look for is a mold to make ingots. Lyman made the mold I have and it produces approximately one-pound ingots. Doing a mass melt and cleaning the dirt, slag and clips out of the molten metal by using some paraffin (discarded candle wax works) or beeswax stirred into the melted mix is a good idea. Then, pour the cleaned metal into the mold. In the future, when you're casting you'll have clean ingots to add to the mix.

Don't forget that you'll need to clean the molten metal from time to time. Simply put a bit of wax on top and stir it into the metal as it melts. I usually light the smoke - it burns nicely. Then, simply skim off the "dirt".

 

[briant]

I was just given a bar that says flexam 50/50 on it...it is a 2-3 lb bar. I was told it is 50% lead and 50% tin. My understanding is that it was used as a solder on old lead pipes. Do you think that can safely mixed in with the wheel weights for casting bullets?

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[SkipD]

I was just given a bar that says flexam 50/50 on it...it is a 2-3 lb bar. I was told it is 50% lead and 50% tin. My understanding is that it was used as a solder on old lead pipes. Do you think that can safely mixed in with the wheel weights for casting bullets?

I wouldn't do that. It would, more than likely, soften the alloy.

When I was casting bullets (I have not done so in 8 years or so), I sometimes added a little tin to wheel weight metal. It seemed to help the metal flow in the mold better as I recall. However, what I added was generally significantly less than 1% by weight of my pot full of metal.