Yes I think if you use the same make and grain you can repeat it. However every time I go pick up some ammo it's usually a different make and grain. So buy a lot of what you like when you see it.Is it a consistent difference between the 2 loads?
Dope the drop with each load in the field and take notes. If your scope has marked dials, use them. Tape a dope sheet to the stock or store it in the handle.
Once you've verified the info, there's no more guesswork, just adjust the scope.
Anyone use Ozark Ordnance or Ventura munitions nice prices in general for 300BLK
http://www.ozarkordnance.com/300-AAC-Blackout-147gr-FMJ-Qty-250_p_11.html
https://www.venturamunitions.com/ventura-tactical-300-aac-blackout-147gr-fmj-ammo-250-rounds/
I think you hit it on the head. I'd zero for 75 too, but not because of the chart. Keep in mind that those charts are a little confusing. It shows one load "rising" when it's simply a difference in point of aim compared to the faster load. I like 75 because you'll be ok for 50-100 with little Kentucky windage required.If you're sighting in the 300BLK and you shoot both subs for plinking and supers for hunting what's the magic number for zero. I found a chart for viewing and am wondering what do you use for your zero. Is 75 yds where I need to be and just learn my holds from there. Thanks for the help.
View attachment 20442
This is what I am looking for in a scope. I will probably end up buying one. I can let you know how it is if I get it before you do.This could be a good fix for switching super to sub too. Anyone tried one out.
View attachment 20768
http://www.primaryarms.com/nikon-p-300-2-7x32mm-riflescope-300-blackout-supersub-bdc-reticle-6797
This could be a good fix for switching super to sub too. Anyone tried one out.
View attachment 20768
http://www.primaryarms.com/nikon-p-300-2-7x32mm-riflescope-300-blackout-supersub-bdc-reticle-6797