Like I said, I'm new to reloading. I've read how groups will tighten up, and then expand from my reading, but this is the first time I've seen it first hand. I've got three good possibilities, and think I'm going with 24.2 grs of Varget.
77gr Sierra Tipped MKs
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Like I said, I'm new to reloading. I've read how groups will tighten up, and then expand from my reading, but this is the first time I've seen it first hand. I've got three good possibilities, and think I'm going with 24.2 grs of Varget.
Looks like it went good. You can see the nodes where it comes together then goes to shit then tightens back up. I would load some at 24, 24.1, and 24.2 when you have a chance to use a chrono and see where you're at. I like 24.1 because it's in between your two good groups and gives you a little more buffer from that 24.4 load that opened back up. There is probably something around 25 if you didn't have any over pressure issues yet but probably not worth chasing unless you really needed the extra velocity for some reason but I always take the accuracy over speed.
That's a good idea, loading at 24.1. I'm using irons out to 600 yards towards the end of January, so I'm not sure if I'll have any more time for load development between now and then. When I have a chance, I'll definitely do that.
The first group with 23grs is decent too, there might be something else in the 22 to 23 range that's good also. The manual starts at 22.5 and ends at 25.
Other than wanting above 2500fps, I'm not really interested in pushing it. I should be around 2675fps at 24grs. The BC is supposed to be .420 above 2400fps.
Looks like you are working up a good load. You are doing the right things. I find a light crimp from a Lee factory crimp die does not hurt accuracy on rounds running thru a gas gun on bullets with no cannelure.
OK. Now you've got my attention! I need to order some bullets, and a reloader and a bunch of other stuff...
I really want to work up a load for my MK12 barreled upper.
It is really fun when you start beating factory match ammo at 1/2 the cost
You can load some good ammo with a Lee, but it is like buying tools at Harbor Freight. Get a RCBS/ Lyman/ Redding kit and you will not have to buy/upgrade again.
Just a side note: You know Freedom is the man when he needs match bullets/ loads with iron sights!
I picked 1000 of the bullets at 1/2 off,
.17 bullet+.035 primer+.10 powder+ brass, so these are costing me what brass plinking ammo costs.
My .223 dies are Lee. The didn't really start pressing a noticeable ring until loads heavier than the one I'll be using.
I found a deal on someone's Grandpa's reloading stuff. I've seen some decent deals on presses lately, probably because ammo is so reasonable now.
No, definitely not. I just want to increase my chances with a flat shooting sub moa round. This way, when I screw the pooch, I know who to blame.
I bought a used RCBS rock chucker and just started adding stuff from there. You'd have to look hard at the "complete" kits to see if they're for you. They do save you money vs buying all the pieces separate but I realized I wouldn't use some of it and wouldn't be cheaper for me. Handloader is spot on in what he said about the equipment. Go cheap if you're unsure if it's for you maybe but if it's something you decide to stick with enjoy the journey down the rabbit hole.
I should have asked you what kinda die it was lol my .223 lee die does the same thing to the bullets now that you brought it to my attention.
If you are only shooting 100 yards then the lee dies will serve you well. The RCBS tend to need readjustment while using. Also if you do not adjust them properly the depriming rod and mouth sizer can be cocked to one side and can pull the case mouth uneven. For the beginner lee dies are the way to go, they are simple as a sledgehammer and just as easy to use. As for your load depending on barrel twist rate and using a long pill like a 77 grain velocity is the big factor, get a chrony. I will say nice choice in pill though those matchkings are very good.
You said they were only good for loading 100 yard ammo. If they'll produce accurate rounds at 100 yards they'll still be accurate at 500 yards given the shooters ability, proper bullet choice, and low SD/ES none of which have anything to do with the die.
No. Shooting at 100 yards is a lot different than 500. At that distance everything matters a lot more and groups open up. If you are shooting moa at 100, the group will expand based on a lot of things, wind, velocity of the bullet, the natural drift of the round. If all of the rounds are not exactly the same there will be variation in how they perform. This is a lot more pronounced at 500 yards than it is at 100, this is why match dies have dials for bullet seating so there is as little variation as possible.
Reading the wind is on the shooter not the round and certainly not the die. As I said a sub moa load at 100 yards with tight velocity numbers and appropriate bullet choice will be sub moa at 500 given the shooters abilities. Micrometer seating dies have dials for easy adjustments in seating depths which is nice when you shoot multiple bullets in the same caliber or doing seating depth tests in load development. I have whidden, redding, rcbs, and lee dies. They are all capable of producing match winning ammo based on my real world results.