Question - trigger job on an older snub

[rayzer007]

I have an older ('70ish) S&W model 37 snub Airweight. The trigger has grooves in it that are very uncomfortable. Should I have the trigger replaced, or simply have the serrations ground down and then polished? The work will be done by a gunsmith.

Ray

 

[SkipD]

I think the answer to your question really needs your input. Would a shorter trigger reach (current reach less the removed material) feel right for you?

You could also get a smooth add-on to widen and smoothen the trigger.

I don't know what aftermarket triggers are available for those. I haven't looked for parts like that in several decades. You might want to peruse the on-line catalog at Brownell's for optional triggers. Obviously, if you're going to replace the trigger it will have to be very carefully fitted so that the timing is right. That's not normally a do-it-yourself job.

 

[rayzer007]

I think the answer to your question really needs your input. Would a shorter trigger reach (current reach less the removed material) feel right for you?

You could also get a smooth add-on to widen and smoothen the trigger.

I don't know what aftermarket triggers are available for those. I haven't looked for parts like that in several decades. You might want to peruse the on-line catalog at Brownell's for optional triggers. Obviously, if you're going to replace the trigger it will have to be very carefully fitted so that the timing is right. That's not normally a do-it-yourself job.

I don't think I would notice a lesser trigger reach Skip; the scoring doesn't appear to be very deep; just enough to cause irritation.
I asked Mas Ayoob (posed a question on Glock SD Forum) about a trigger shoe, and he said absolutely not (AD possible due to it's being wider than the trigger guard), and possible loosening of the screws allowing the shoe to slip down and prevent the trigger from operating.
I'm going to check with 2 gunsmiths for their opinions/prices and go from there.
I'll look at what Brownell's has.
Thanks!

Ray

 

[SkipD]

I don't think I would notice a lesser trigger reach Skip; the scoring doesn't appear to be very deep; just enough to cause irritation.
I asked Mas Ayoob (posed a question on Glock SD Forum) about a trigger shoe, and he said absolutely not (AD possible due to it's being wider than the trigger guard), and possible loosening of the screws allowing the shoe to slip down and prevent the trigger from operating.
I'm going to check with 2 gunsmiths for their opinions/prices and go from there.
I'll look at what Brownell's has.
Thanks!

If all you want to do is smooth out the existing trigger (and assuming that it's working well, doesn't really need work to get a good release, and timing is good), that's really easy to do assuming you can disassemble the frame without boogering anything up. With the tools I have, that would be a very simple job for me and I suspect that a few others here could do it as well.

 

[Slowhand]

I have two snub nosed, S&W "J" Frame, 38 Specials, one made in 1960 and the other in 1983. The grooves on the trigger only become uncomfortable after about 50 rounds or so. I've left the grooves in their original shape, since I want to preserve their original condition.

Unless they extra ordinarily sharp, or you intend of doing a lot of shooting, I suggest leaving them alone.

 

[rayzer007]

I have two snub nosed, S&W "J" Frame, 38 Specials, one made in 1960 and the other in 1983. The grooves on the trigger only become uncomfortable after about 50 rounds or so. I've left the grooves in their original shape, since I want to preserve their original condition.

Unless they extra ordinarily sharp, or you intend of doing a lot of shooting, I suggest leaving them alone.

That's a great point Bill! I may just do that as I really don't shoot that much. My master gunsmithing friend (who is backed up with orders for 6 months) said he has dremmeled several of his triggers to smooth out the ridged lines, and said that would be all it would need. Carefully done, of course. I'll wait and see if I start obsessing about something else and drop the idea. I've got all the guns I want, holsters, and ammo, so I think that's where the whole idea came from ... boredom ..... and looking for a fusspot project.

Ray

 

[rayzer007]

If all you want to do is smooth out the existing trigger (and assuming that it's working well, doesn't really need work to get a good release, and timing is good), that's really easy to do assuming you can disassemble the frame without boogering anything up. With the tools I have, that would be a very simple job for me and I suspect that a few others here could do it as well.

If I tried anything like that, I would much more than 'booger it up'; more like destroy!

Ray

 

[SkipD]

If I tried anything like that, I would much more than 'booger it up'; more like destroy!

I'd be glad to do the job for ya, but without an FFL I suspect I could get in trouble for doing it - especially if I had to take things apart (to keep the trigger separate from other parts that could get marred if the trigger was left in the frame for the mod).

 

[Slowhand]

If I tried anything like that, I would much more than 'booger it up'; more like destroy!

I'd be glad to do the job for ya, but without an FFL I suspect I could get in trouble for doing it - especially if I had to take things apart (to keep the trigger separate from other parts that could get marred if the trigger was left in the frame for the mod).

LOL. Popping those old side plates on S&Ws is easy, it's getting the spring back in that bites.

I've worked on a few pistols for some friends but they go home the same day. In SC you have to have an FFL to keep them over night.

 

[Slowhand]

I have two snub nosed, S&W "J" Frame, 38 Specials, one made in 1960 and the other in 1983. The grooves on the trigger only become uncomfortable after about 50 rounds or so. I've left the grooves in their original shape, since I want to preserve their original condition.

Unless they extra ordinarily sharp, or you intend of doing a lot of shooting, I suggest leaving them alone.

That's a great point Bill! I may just do that as I really don't shoot that much. My master gunsmithing friend (who is backed up with orders for 6 months) said he has dremmeled several of his triggers to smooth out the ridged lines, and said that would be all it would need. Carefully done, of course. I'll wait and see if I start obsessing about something else and drop the idea. I've got all the guns I want, holsters, and ammo, so I think that's where the whole idea came from ... boredom ..... and looking for a fusspot project.

Ray

Ray

I understand the urge thing. I've been resisting it for years. But evey now and then.

Dremels and firearms can get sticky real quick like. I've got a safe full of old guns but prefer to leave the pantina intact on the antiques and just do what's necessary for preservation. Trying to restore an old gun to an original manufactured look just wipes away alot of history, plus reduces it's value. Replacement parts can get real expensive, plus shipping & handling from places like South Dakota or Montana. On some of the older stuff the parts don't fit and trying to figure out what some gunsmith was or wasn't thinking about in 1877 can get old real quick like.

Anyway it's all in good fun.

Bill

 

[Denny4kids]

I would leave it alone and when it's time to shoot a piece of shrink tube could be put on the trigger or just put a piece of tape on your thumb. Both can be removed when finished. Just an idea.

If it were mine and I chose to soften up the serrations, the weapon would be taped up in a latex glove so only the trigger was exposed. Then the sharp points could be removed slowly with a little wet stone. Denny

 

[rayzer007]

I would leave it alone and when it's time to shoot a piece of shrink tube could be put on the trigger or just put a piece of tape on your thumb. Both can be removed when finished. Just an idea.

Thanks Denny. The shrink wrap will go on tonight! Just picked up a few small pieces at work this morning! I might even split a small tube, and just cover the front and sides, and hit it with some heat. Simplest solution and easily reversible - great idea 8)

Ray

 

[SkipD]

I might even split a small tube, and just cover the front and sides, and hit it with some heat. Simplest solution and easily reversible - great idea 8)

Ray - I've used a LOT of heat shrink tubing over the years and I don't think you'll want to split the tubing lengthwise. It won't do what you want when you heat it. The best way to use heat shrink tubing would be to simply thread it onto the trigger very carefully and then heat it.

Heat shrink tubing comes in many different diameters and - even in the same diameter - different thicknesses. You just have to look around at all of the different sources and find the best product for the job. I have a whole parts drawer or two full of heat shrink tubing and even with that there are times that I don't have what may be ideal for a given job.

I have another idea for your trigger. Mix up some epoxy and then smear it over the ribbed face of the trigger. If the application isn't perfect, you can use 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper to smooth it down to your liking.

 

[Verticoli]

jb weld

 

[rayzer007]

Well, I heated a piece of shrink wrap over the trigger and it seems to be an acceptable improvement, while being imminently undoable! I'll see how it lasts, and how it works out when I shoot it. Thanks so much for all the input. I still may go a few of those suggested routes!

Ray - (the inveterate fusspot)