Getting a scope level
- Thread starter AtlMedic
- Start date
Assuming you have a quality set of rings or one piece mount that did not require lapping, I personally use precision flange levels and a rifle rest. Level the action with 1 level, then use the other level on the elevation turret to level the reticle to the rifles action. Make sure both stay still and level...Note: Rings screws are just before being tight when doing this allowing the scope to be able to rotate in them but in enough that I can get them partially snug them with minimal turns (I already apply my loctite, blue 242, right before this). Once level, I lightly tighten the screws on each ring in a criss-cross pattern until tight to spec (can be anywhere between 10-20 INCH pounds). Most rings will have a recommended torque spec.
Also note that if you are mounting rings or a one piece mount on a rail, push the rings/mount on the rail forward towards the muzzle until they stop before tightening to the base. This eliminates the possibility of them shifting with recoil.
Also note that if you are mounting rings or a one piece mount on a rail, push the rings/mount on the rail forward towards the muzzle until they stop before tightening to the base. This eliminates the possibility of them shifting with recoil.
I've got several gadgets and widgets I use, mainly because not all methods work with all setups.
1. Level and a plumb bob
2. Wheeler Level-Level-Level
3. Arisaka Scope Leveler
2 other methods that involve widgets that I don't know who made them.
1. Level and a plumb bob
2. Wheeler Level-Level-Level
3. Arisaka Scope Leveler
2 other methods that involve widgets that I don't know who made them.
There may be some beer in it for someone to help me get two scopes mounted properly. I'm sure I can do it, but it will end up being a pain in the ass getting the rifle and scope level if I do it myself.
I'm happy to help anyone that needs it.
Not to throw a wrench into the works, but I also lap my rings. I have all the tools and such needed, if anyone needs assistance.
Not to throw a wrench into the works, but I also lap my rings. I have all the tools and such needed, if anyone needs assistance.
I would much recommend Rob for any scope mounting. His glass collection is worth more than all the guns, ammo and firearms I own....
How do you like your L-L-L kit from wheeler? Those have massive mixed reviews for quality issues (machinist proving them to be 5-15 degrees off from the poorly made plastic bases in some instances?). I use precision flange levels, but also have the level vials out of 2 line levels, that would be close to basically what the Wheeler kit is.
I have a very simple way (since I built my rig for holding rifles while working on them). My rig has a spring-loaded pair of vertically oriented 2x4 boards and a leather loop between them making a clamp that I push the butt end of the stock into while the fore-end is supported in another leather sling about two feet in front of the rear clamp. I make sure the rig is vertical (using a level and small wedges if necessary). I make sure the rear of the stock is evenly spaced in my rig. The result is the centerline of the rifle stock's buttplate is vertical. I also have a large piece of paper on a wall some four feet in front of the rig and a horizontal line is drawn on the paper and measured with a level to be sure it's level. Now, it's really easy to look through a scope on the rifle and see if the horizontal crosshair is parallel to my line on the paper. Doing a check and adjustment after the system is set up takes very little time.
I use this rig when I work our gun club's deer rifle sight-in as the gunsmith. I cannot count the number of scopes that I've mounted and/or adjusted with this system and it's really fool-proof. I've used the system for about 40 years, all day long for each of four days each year.
By the way, I'm not a professional gunsmith but have been working on my stuff and that of friends for about 50 years.
